How to Clean a Washing Machine

Where the smell actually comes from

• The rubber door gasket (front loaders): water sits in its folds. Black spots there have their own guide: black mold in the washer door seal.
• The detergent and softener drawer: sticky residue and mold.
• The drain pump filter (front loaders): lint, coins, hair pins and stagnant water.
• Under the agitator rim (top loaders): hidden scum ring.
• The drum’s outer side, which you never see, coated with “scrud” from too much detergent and softener.

Step 1: The gasket (front loaders)

Open the door and pull back the rubber seal all the way around. You will probably find hair, lint, gray slime or black mold spots. Wipe them out with a cloth. For mold, use a solution of 1 tablespoon of bleach in 1 quart of water (about 1 liter), with gloves on and the room ventilated. Get into the folds with an old toothbrush. Rinse with a clean wet cloth and dry.

Black spots that stay after cleaning have stained the rubber. They are not dangerous, but if the seal is cracked or the smell will not go away, the gasket can be replaced.

Step 2: The detergent drawer

Most drawers pop out if you press a small tab (often marked “push”) while pulling. Soak the drawer in hot water with a little dish soap for 10 minutes, scrub with the toothbrush and rinse. Do not forget the cavity the drawer slides into: shine a flashlight inside and you may find mold on the top. Wipe it out.

Step 3: The drain filter (front loaders)

Behind a small panel at the bottom front of most front loaders is the drain pump filter. Unplug the machine first. Put a towel and a shallow tray on the floor, open the small drain hose or slowly unscrew the filter, and let the water drain out. It will smell bad. Pull out the filter, remove lint and objects, rinse it and screw it back tightly.

Doing this every two to three months also helps your washer drain properly.

Step 4: Top loaders: the agitator and rim

Wipe the underside of the lid, the rim of the tub and around the agitator. If your agitator has a fabric softener cup on top, pull it off and wash it. For a deep clean, fill the tub with hot water, add your cleaner, let it agitate for a minute, then pause the cycle for an hour so it soaks before finishing.

Step 5: The hot cleaning cycle

Run the hottest and longest cycle (many machines have a “Tub Clean” setting), with the machine empty. Choose one of these:

• 1/2 cup of chlorine bleach in the bleach dispenser, best for mold and odor; or
• 2 cups of white vinegar in the drum, good for detergent and mineral buildup; or
• A commercial washer cleaner tablet, following the box.

Never use bleach and vinegar in the same cycle. Together they release chlorine gas. If you want to use both, do a bleach cycle one day and a vinegar cycle another day, with a plain rinse cycle in between.

Step 6: Dry it out

Wipe the drum and the seal dry with a towel. Then leave the door and the detergent drawer open for a few hours, or permanently if you have no small kids or pets around. This one habit prevents most future smells.

Front load vs. top load: what is different

ENERGY STAR-certified washers use less water than older models, which is one reason detergent residue builds up faster if you use too much: there is less water to rinse it away.

Bleach cycle or vinegar cycle?

If your manual recommends a specific cleaner or says not to use vinegar, follow the manual. Some manufacturers advise against frequent vinegar use because of the seals.

A monthly routine (about 15 minutes of work)

1. Week 1: wipe the door seal and run the empty hot cleaning cycle.
2. Every week: wipe the bottom fold of the door seal with a dry towel and leave the door open.
3. Every 2–3 months: open the drain filter on a front loader.
4. Every 3 months: soak the detergent drawer.
5. Once a year: check the hoses behind the machine for bulges or cracks. Many manufacturers recommend replacing rubber fill hoses every few years; braided stainless hoses are a common upgrade.

Common mistakes

• Using regular detergent in an HE machine: it makes too many suds, which leave residue and can trigger extra rinses.
• Pods plus extra liquid: one pod is a full dose. Adding more detergent “for dirty loads” builds up scum.
• Fabric softener in every load: waxy buildup in the drum and in towels; see the musty towel fix.
• Closing the door right after a wash: the number one cause of smelly front loaders.
• Overloading: clothes need room to move; an overstuffed drum rinses poorly.
• Washing very dirty mud or pet hair loads without a rinse: shake out hair and mud first, then run a quick rinse cycle afterward.

When it is not dirt: other causes of smells

• Sewer smell: the standpipe the drain hose goes into may lack a trap or be partly dry. That is a plumbing issue, not a cleaning one.
• Smell only from hot water: sometimes the home’s water heater is the source. Check whether hot tap water in the kitchen smells the same.
• Burning smell: stop using the machine and unplug it; it may be a motor or belt problem.

FAQ: quick answers

Can I use a dishwasher tablet to clean a washer? Some people do, but it is not what the product is made for. Use your manual’s recommended method.

Is the black stuff in my seal dangerous? It is usually mildew and detergent residue. Clean it with the steps in our door seal guide and keep the area dry. The EPA’s advice for mold at home is to fix the moisture first.

How long should a washer last? Commonly 10 years or so, depending on use and model. A clean, dry machine tends to have fewer smell and drainage problems.

Signs your washer needs more than cleaning

• Water left in the drum after the cycle even with a clean drain filter: the drain pump or hose may be blocked or failing.
• Loud banging during spin when the load is balanced: worn shock absorbers or bearings.
• Puddles under the machine: a cracked hose, a torn door seal or a loose connection. Turn off the water valves behind the machine until it is checked.
• Error codes: search the code with your model number; many are simple filter or drain errors you can fix yourself.

In those cases, cleaning will not fix it; a repair service or the manufacturer’s support line will.

Stop the smell from coming back

• Use less detergent. Modern HE detergents are concentrated. Too much leaves residue. Follow the line on the cap for normal loads, not the top.
• Skip or cut back on liquid fabric softener. It is a major source of buildup. Try wool dryer balls instead.
• Take clothes out right away. Wet laundry left for hours smells and spreads it to the machine.
• Run a hot wash once a week (towels are perfect for it).
• Keep the dryer side clean too. A clogged vent leaves loads damp and musty; check the dryer vent warning signs.
• Door open, drawer open between loads.

Musty towels even after the machine is clean? Read our guide to getting rid of the sour towel smell.